Newfoundland’s Colourful Outports
In my second novel, The English Wife, English
architect, Sophie Parry, finds herself stranded on the island of Newfoundland
(part of the Canadian province of Newfoundland & Labrador), when her flight
to New York on 9/11 is diverted to the small town of Gander, Newfoundland. She
contacts her estranged aunt Ellie, who had moved to Newfoundland as a war bride
in 1946, and who now lives in a remote outport fishing village on the northern
Newfoundland coast. And what an experience it is for her!
I spent a month in the spring of 2019 travelling around
Newfoundland, and one of the things a particularly enjoyed was the site of
clusters of wooden houses appearing on the shore, in all the colours of a
jellybean bag. There is even a street in the capital, St. John’s, known as
Jellybean Row.
The delving into paint pots of rainbow colours began
in the 1960s during the revitalisation of St. John’s. Prior to that, buildings
were painted white, or dark, drab colours, with the fishing “stages” – one-room
sheds on stilts on the shore used to prepare and store fish – painted dark red.
Now you’ll find buildings all over the island – some over 200 years old –
painted in these candy colours. And what a site they are, with the steely
blue-grey of the North Atlantic in the background.
You don’t have to go far from the centre of St. John’s
to find your first fishing village. Quidi Vidi (pronounced “Kiddy Viddi”), is
located behind Signal Hill with its stone lookout, Cabot Tower, on a small
harbour known as “The Gut”.
Some of my favourite places to find these hidden gems
are in Trinity, on the Bonavista Peninsula; Salvage (pronounced Sal-VAGE), on
the tip of the Eastport Peninsula; Newtown, a restored historic outport; and
Joe Batt’s Arm and Tilting on the island of Fogo, where you’ll also find
Brimstone Hill, according to the Flat Earth Society, one of the four corners of
the world. Careful, don’t fall off!
The English Wife
is available on Amazon and online retailers
Link to bio and blurb here:
No comments
Post a Comment